FAQ | The Perfect Shuffle

Frequently Asked Questions

Eoin, is pronounced, Owen.
Stripper Jig
What blades do you use, and where can I get them?
The blades are called "single edge razor blades".
I buy mine on eBay in boxes of 100 (they cost about €12 a box) You can also buy them on Amazon and in Art and Craft shops in smaller quantities.
Replace the blade as soon as you feel it starting to get blunt.
Depending on the cut, you may use one or two blades per deck.
Do you have a Stripper Jig User Guide?
Yes, an online User Guide (plus additional info) can be found by clicking the big red button on the Stripper Jig page. Or download the main guide here.
Do you have any tips for using the Jig?
Like any tool it requires practice. Be prepared to go through a few decks simply getting used to the cutting procedure.

Keep track of the cards you've cut! It's very easy to lift a card that you have previously cut without realising it's been cut.

When you've cut an entire deck, buff the decks edges with a finger nail buffer.

Lubricate the jig occasionally with fine powdered teflon, available at piano stores or on ebay.
How do you round the corner?
You can use a diamond whetstone or a finger nail buffer.

The way to use either, to round the corner of a stripper deck, is to move the deck against the whetstone/buffer, not the whetstone/buffer against the deck.

The whetstone should have a continuous surface (not the dimpled type). This continuous type has a solid flat surface made up of diamond grit. I use a medium grit 15cm x 6cm, one sided stone, and an inexpensive one at that.
You will need to keep it ONLY for rounding corners of playing cards.

The nail buffers can be bought by the dozen on eBay.

Simply place the whetstone/buffer, abrasive side up, narrow end nearest yourself, on a surface that will stop it from slipping about, holding it at each end, between the thumb and fingers of one hand.

Holding the deck, in the other hand, by the ends, in a sort of sideways biddle grip, square the edge of a newly cut deck on the whetstone/buffers surface - the corner you want to round is farthest away from you. Simply slide the deck still squared towards yourself, at the same time as lifting the corner of the deck nearest yourself, off the whetstone/buffer, and allowing the other (cut) corner to slide across the whetstone/buffer surface as you continue to hinge the deck upwards.

Shuffle the deck (I faro them), and repeat as necessary.

If a small burr occurs - repeat the same actions but this time instead of keeping the deck squared, bevel the deck to the right and slide this bevelled edge along the surface. Then bevel the deck to the left and do the same.

You should end up with a round corner in no time.
Pinpoint Pegger
What pins do you use, and where can I get them?
The pins supplied with the Pinpoint Pegger are made by Prym. They are “bridal and lace” stainless steel pins. 26mm in length and 0.52mm diameter. Search eBay.
Do you have a Pinpoint Pegger User Guide?
Yes, an online User Guide can be found by clicking the big red button on the Pinpoint Pegger page. Or download the guide here.
Do you have any tips using the pegger?
It’s important to set-up the pin height as described in the guide, placing a (sacrificial) card fully under the arm of the pegger, so that the pin is pointing at the centre of the card. It’s worth spending five minutes adjusting the height and testing until you find the best height.

You may need to change the height of the pin depending if your using the pegger for internal blisters, or edge blisters.
Here’s why...
Due to the exposed nature of the pinpoint, the work placed on edges of cards ( the blisters) will be a little heavier. This is because the card being edge punched is not under the main arm of the pegger.
If you do want to place a blister internally as well as on the edges, a quick fix without changing the pin’s height is this... ( if you feel it’s necessary)… when edge punching, place a strip of playing card under the main arm, to one side of the stop ( it’s held in place by the spring clip), this creates a level the same as a card placed under the arm.

But if you doing all edge work, all the time, I would adjust the height of the pin accordingly.

You should experiment, in my experience, a heavier blister on the edges of cards is desirable.
Do you supply any trick instructions?
No. There are a few punch/pegger books...
See…MagicPedia
http://www.geniimagazine.com/magicpedia/Punch_Deal,[iframe]
See also, Dai Vernon’s Chronicles “More Lost Inner Secrets” Vol.2 p158, and Mike Power’s book “Power Plays”
Stripper Deck Sampler
Can I get a different back design, or cut?
No. These are made in Tally-Ho Circle Back only. In red or blue.
I supply them as a standard stripper deck - with the cut tapered down one long side of the deck.
For any other design or cut, you’ll need to purchase a Stripper Jig.
Why don't you round the corner?
I don’t round the corner of this deck so you’ll see the true cut the Stripper Jig can achieve - a “just cut” deck.

However, I supply a buffer with each deck, and it’s an easy matter of rounding them yourself (two minutes work)
How do I round the corner of the deck?
I supply a buffer with the deck, this is actually a small finger nail buffer. (available on eBay)

Simply place the buffer , with an end of the buffer nearest yourself, on a firm surface, holding it at each end, between the thumb and fingers of one hand.

Holding the deck, in the other hand, by the ends, in a sort of sideways biddle grip, square the edge of a newly cut deck on the buffers surface - the corner you want to round is farthest away from you. Simply slide the deck still squared towards yourself, at the same time as lifting the corner of the deck nearest yourself, off the buffer, and allowing the other (cut) corner to slide across the buffer surface as you continue to hinge the deck upwards.

Shuffle the deck, and repeat as necessary.

If a small burr occurs - repeat the same actions but this time instead of keeping the deck squared, bevel the deck to the right and slide this bevelled edge along the surface. Then bevel the deck to the left and do the same.

You should end up with a round corner very quickly.
Do you supply any instructions?
No. You are supplied with a deck and buffer.
Breather Jig
Do I need to buy anything else for the Breather Jig?
No. The Breather Jig is self-contained. Just supply a deck!
Do you have a User guide?
Yes, an online User Guide can be found by clicking the big red button on the Breather Jig page. Or download the guide here.
Do you have any tips for using the Breather Jig?
Before you ask, all the jig levers have a small wiggle! This stops any binding. It is deliberate, don't try to tighten it, you can't.

You’ll really need to experiment with the depth stop, the decks I find the most useful are a medium setting (the deck has a settling in period and goes a little flatter after using for a while) A medium setting suits most needs. But note, the shallower the bump the more difficult it is to use, and the friction is greater, so the “salt” trick effect won’t work consistently.

Rather than initially using up a lot of decks, try a shallow setting on a deck, test it out. Then you can increase the depth and go over the deck again at this new setting. Continue as needed, you'll find a depth that you like best.
Do you supply any trick instructions?
I supply a PDF with a description of basic handling of the Breather Deck & a few tricks and ideas. A lot of existing tricks that are performed with a stripper deck or with crimps can also be done with a Breather Deck. Look here.
Breather Deck
Can I get a different back design?
No. These are made in Bicycle Back only. In red or blue.

For any other design, you’ll need to purchase a Breather Jig.
Can I get the Breather Deck with lighter or heavier work?
No, the deck supplied has medium work breather's. For heavier or lighter work, you'll need to buy a Breather Jig and make a custom deck.
Any tips for using the Breather Deck?
If this is your first Breather Deck, we highly recommend that you take a pencil and place a dot on the back of each card at one corner. This will allow you to visually identify reversed cards. Please note, before you do this make sure the cards are all the same direction.

How do I know which end of the deck is crimped?
With the deck squared, sweep your thumb over the back of the top card & you should be able to identify the breather crimped end by feel.

The crimped end of the deck is the working end of the deck-Keep this end towards yourself.


Generally speaking, cutting to a crimped card is more difficult if the crimped card is towards the top of the deck or the bottom of the deck. It's much easier to cut to the crimped card if it's around the middle of the deck. The same is true for Breather Deck crimps. It's always best, if you can, to manipulate the cards by shuffling or cutting to leave the reversed card around the middle of the deck.

To determine the position of the reversed card in the deck, simply glimpse the side of the deck as you're squaring the deck, you'll notice a small break.
Do you supply any trick instructions?
Yes. Basic handling, a few tricks and some ideas can be downloaded here. A lot of existing tricks that are performed with a stripper deck or with crimps can also be done with a Breather Deck.
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Eoin O'Hare