Frequently Asked Questions
Eoin is pronounced Owen.
Protected Area
The Protected Area is password protected. You will need to register to access it.
It will contain videos and information which I feel more comfortable discussing away from the main site. I will use it to show prototypes, ideas & demonstrate jigs.
Registering will provide you with a password & once every blue moon I'll send a mail shot. (unsubscribe if you want out of the loop)
It will contain videos and information which I feel more comfortable discussing away from the main site. I will use it to show prototypes, ideas & demonstrate jigs.
Registering will provide you with a password & once every blue moon I'll send a mail shot. (unsubscribe if you want out of the loop)
Stripper Jig
What blades do you use, and where can I get them?
The blades are called "single edge razor blades".
I buy mine on eBay in boxes of 100 (they cost about €12 a box) You can also buy them on Amazon and in Art and Craft shops in smaller quantities.
Replace the blade as soon as you feel it starting to get blunt.
Depending on the cut, you may use one or two blades per deck.
I buy mine on eBay in boxes of 100 (they cost about €12 a box) You can also buy them on Amazon and in Art and Craft shops in smaller quantities.
Replace the blade as soon as you feel it starting to get blunt.
Depending on the cut, you may use one or two blades per deck.
Do you have a Stripper Jig User Guide?
Yes, an online User Guide (plus additional info) can be found by clicking the big red button on the Stripper Jig page. Or download all guides here.
Do you have any tips for using the Jig?
Like any tool it requires practice. Be prepared to go through a few decks simply getting used to the cutting procedure.
Keep track of the cards you've cut! It's very easy to lift a card that you have previously cut without realising it's been cut.
When you've cut an entire deck, buff the decks edges with a finger nail buffer.
Lubricate the jig occasionally with fine powdered teflon, available at piano stores or on ebay.
Keep track of the cards you've cut! It's very easy to lift a card that you have previously cut without realising it's been cut.
When you've cut an entire deck, buff the decks edges with a finger nail buffer.
Lubricate the jig occasionally with fine powdered teflon, available at piano stores or on ebay.
How do you round the corner?
You can use a diamond whetstone or a finger nail buffer.
The way to use either, to round the corner of a stripper deck, is to move the deck against the whetstone/buffer, not the whetstone/buffer against the deck.
The whetstone should have a continuous surface (not the dimpled type). This continuous type has a solid flat surface made up of diamond grit. I use a medium grit 15cm x 6cm, one sided stone, and an inexpensive one at that.
You will need to keep it ONLY for rounding corners of playing cards.
The nail buffers can be bought by the dozen on eBay.
Simply place the whetstone/buffer, abrasive side up, narrow end nearest yourself, on a surface that will stop it from slipping about, holding it at each end, between the thumb and fingers of one hand.
Holding the deck, in the other hand, by the ends, in a sort of sideways biddle grip, square the edge of a newly cut deck on the whetstone/buffers surface - the corner you want to round is farthest away from you. Simply slide the deck still squared towards yourself, at the same time as lifting the corner of the deck nearest yourself, off the whetstone/buffer, and allowing the other (cut) corner to slide across the whetstone/buffer surface as you continue to hinge the deck upwards.
Shuffle the deck (I faro them), and repeat as necessary.
If a small burr occurs - repeat the same actions but this time instead of keeping the deck squared, bevel the deck to the right and slide this bevelled edge along the surface. Then bevel the deck to the left and do the same.
You should end up with a round corner in no time.
The way to use either, to round the corner of a stripper deck, is to move the deck against the whetstone/buffer, not the whetstone/buffer against the deck.
The whetstone should have a continuous surface (not the dimpled type). This continuous type has a solid flat surface made up of diamond grit. I use a medium grit 15cm x 6cm, one sided stone, and an inexpensive one at that.
You will need to keep it ONLY for rounding corners of playing cards.
The nail buffers can be bought by the dozen on eBay.
Simply place the whetstone/buffer, abrasive side up, narrow end nearest yourself, on a surface that will stop it from slipping about, holding it at each end, between the thumb and fingers of one hand.
Holding the deck, in the other hand, by the ends, in a sort of sideways biddle grip, square the edge of a newly cut deck on the whetstone/buffers surface - the corner you want to round is farthest away from you. Simply slide the deck still squared towards yourself, at the same time as lifting the corner of the deck nearest yourself, off the whetstone/buffer, and allowing the other (cut) corner to slide across the whetstone/buffer surface as you continue to hinge the deck upwards.
Shuffle the deck (I faro them), and repeat as necessary.
If a small burr occurs - repeat the same actions but this time instead of keeping the deck squared, bevel the deck to the right and slide this bevelled edge along the surface. Then bevel the deck to the left and do the same.
You should end up with a round corner in no time.
Pinpoint Pegger
What pins do you use, and where can I get them?
The pins supplied with the Pinpoint Pegger are made by Prym. They are “bridal and lace” stainless steel pins. 26mm in length and 0.52mm diameter. Search eBay.
Do you have a Pinpoint Pegger User Guide?
Yes, an online User Guide can be found by clicking the big red button on the Pinpoint Pegger page. Or download the guide here.
Do you have any tips using the pegger?
It’s important to set-up the pin height as described in the guide, placing a (sacrificial) card fully under the arm of the pegger, so that the pin is pointing at the centre of the card. It’s worth spending five minutes adjusting the height and testing until you find the best height.
You may need to change the height of the pin depending if your using the pegger for internal blisters, or edge blisters.
Here’s why...
Due to the exposed nature of the pinpoint, the work placed on edges of cards ( the blisters) will be a little heavier. This is because the card being edge punched is not under the main arm of the pegger.
If you do want to place a blister internally as well as on the edges, a quick fix without changing the pin’s height is this... ( if you feel it’s necessary)… when edge punching, place a strip of playing card under the main arm, to one side of the stop ( it’s held in place by the spring clip), this creates a level the same as a card placed under the arm.
But if you doing all edge work, all the time, I would adjust the height of the pin accordingly.
You should experiment, in my experience, a heavier blister on the edges of cards is desirable.
You may need to change the height of the pin depending if your using the pegger for internal blisters, or edge blisters.
Here’s why...
Due to the exposed nature of the pinpoint, the work placed on edges of cards ( the blisters) will be a little heavier. This is because the card being edge punched is not under the main arm of the pegger.
If you do want to place a blister internally as well as on the edges, a quick fix without changing the pin’s height is this... ( if you feel it’s necessary)… when edge punching, place a strip of playing card under the main arm, to one side of the stop ( it’s held in place by the spring clip), this creates a level the same as a card placed under the arm.
But if you doing all edge work, all the time, I would adjust the height of the pin accordingly.
You should experiment, in my experience, a heavier blister on the edges of cards is desirable.
Do you supply any trick instructions?
No. There are a few punch/pegger books...
See…MagicPedia
https://geniimagazine.com/wiki/index.php?title=Punch_Deal,[iframe]
See also, Dai Vernon’s Chronicles “More Lost Inner Secrets” Vol.2 p158, and Mike Power’s book “Power Plays”
Breather Jig
Do I need to buy anything else for the Breather Jig?
No. The Breather Jig is self-contained. Just supply a deck!
Do you have a User guide?
Yes, an online User Guide can be found by clicking the big red button on the Breather Jig page. Or download the guide here.
Do you have any tips for using the Breather Jig?
Before you ask, all the jig levers have a small wiggle! This stops any binding. It is deliberate, don't try to tighten it, you can't.
You’ll really need to experiment with the depth stop, the decks I find the most useful are a medium setting (the deck has a settling in period and goes a little flatter after using for a while) A medium setting suits most needs. But note, the shallower the bump the more difficult it is to use, and the friction is greater, so the “salt” trick effect won’t work consistently.
Rather than initially using up a lot of decks, try a shallow setting on a deck, test it out. Then you can increase the depth and go over the deck again at this new setting. Continue as needed, you'll find a depth that you like best.
You’ll really need to experiment with the depth stop, the decks I find the most useful are a medium setting (the deck has a settling in period and goes a little flatter after using for a while) A medium setting suits most needs. But note, the shallower the bump the more difficult it is to use, and the friction is greater, so the “salt” trick effect won’t work consistently.
Rather than initially using up a lot of decks, try a shallow setting on a deck, test it out. Then you can increase the depth and go over the deck again at this new setting. Continue as needed, you'll find a depth that you like best.
Do you supply any trick instructions?
I supply a PDF with a description of basic handling of the Breather Deck & a few tricks and ideas. A lot of existing tricks that are performed with a stripper deck or with crimps can also be done with a Breather Deck. Look here.
N-Stripper Jig
Do you supply any instructions?
I provide video instructions on how to use the N-Stripper Jig. A link will be emailed when purchased. Or, if you register you can view this video in the password Protected Area.
No instructions are given for N-Stripper Card technique. If you don't know what they are or how to use them …this is not the jig you're looking for.
Theory11 have an excellent introduction to the concept, https://store.theory11.com/products/sub-rosa-by-jason-england
No instructions are given for N-Stripper Card technique. If you don't know what they are or how to use them …this is not the jig you're looking for.
Theory11 have an excellent introduction to the concept, https://store.theory11.com/products/sub-rosa-by-jason-england
How heavy is the work?
The jig makes fine/very fine work. It is not for beginners.
Is there a N-Stripper Jig User Guide?
A video can be viewed in the Protected Area
Corner Splitter Jig
How do you adjust the fence?
The Hidden Fence (3) can be adjusted to reduce or enlarge the size of exposed card corner. To do this, loosen the two Fence Adjustment Screws (6) with the 2.5mm hex key. The fence can now be moved out using the side of a playing card. Place a playing card into the jig exposing the amount of corner you require. Using the corner of another playing card move the fence up against the internal card and then tighten the screws (6)
How much corner should be exposed?
Too small an exposed corner & the corner will be difficult to split.
Too large an exposed corner & the card’s layers will not split.
There is a ‘sweet spot’ of exposed corner which will separate the layers and the rubber of the jig will lift one layer with ease. Adjust the fence to achieve this ‘sweet spot’. I know this is a little fiddly but this is a one time set up so it’s worth taking time to get it just right.
Too large an exposed corner & the card’s layers will not split.
There is a ‘sweet spot’ of exposed corner which will separate the layers and the rubber of the jig will lift one layer with ease. Adjust the fence to achieve this ‘sweet spot’. I know this is a little fiddly but this is a one time set up so it’s worth taking time to get it just right.
Is there a Corner Splitter User Guide?
Yes! Download it here
Card Splitter Jig
Do you supply any instructions?
I provide video instructions on how to use the Card Splitter Jig. A link will be emailed when purchased. Or, if you register you can view this video in the password Protected Area.
Do I need to buy anything else to use the jig?
I recommend that the Card Splitter Jig is screwed down on to a board, &/or a small clamp is purchased to allow the board or jig itself to be clamped to a table top.
This jig requires you to prepare the card by softening it and splitting the cards corner, before it can be used.
It you can do this there is no need for anything else.
If you can't, you can purchase the Snaker to soften the cards and the Corner Splitter Jig for splitting the cards corner.
This jig requires you to prepare the card by softening it and splitting the cards corner, before it can be used.
It you can do this there is no need for anything else.
If you can't, you can purchase the Snaker to soften the cards and the Corner Splitter Jig for splitting the cards corner.
Snaker
Do you supply any instructions?
I provide video instructions on how to use the Snaker. A link will be emailed when purchased. Or, if you register you can view this video in the password Protected Area.
Do I need to buy anything else to use the jig?
The Snaker only prepares the card by softening the fibres of the paper and glue layers. It does not split cards alone.
You will need to purchase the Corner Splitter Jig &/or the Card SplitterJig.
You will need to purchase the Corner Splitter Jig &/or the Card SplitterJig.
Will a Snaker ensure ALL my cards will split?
No, but it will increase the odds that it will. Some cards , no matter what you throw at them just won't split.
My theory has to do with the penetration of the glue used in the manufacturing process. Some glue sinks in, some doesn't, roller pressure may vary etc. whatever it is, some cards just won't split.
If you really need a particular card, use the Snaker for a longer period of time to increase the odds of it splitting. You can get the card very soft!
My theory has to do with the penetration of the glue used in the manufacturing process. Some glue sinks in, some doesn't, roller pressure may vary etc. whatever it is, some cards just won't split.
If you really need a particular card, use the Snaker for a longer period of time to increase the odds of it splitting. You can get the card very soft!
Aligner Jig
Do you supply any instructions?
I provide video instructions on how to use the Aligner Jig. If you register you can view this video in the password Protected Area.
Magician Tom Frame also has an instruction video that you may find useful , LINK
Magician Tom Frame also has an instruction video that you may find useful , LINK
Do I need to buy anything else to use the jig?
Probably.
If you are going to use dry mount tissue (DMT) to join your split cards then you'll need an electric tacking iron. If you're going to go this route I would recommend buying a digital temperature controlled one. (mine isn't but I have an external thermometer I use to set the temperature)
The DMT I use is called Colormount.
You'll also need a 3mm corner cutter.
If you go the glue stick method of joining split cards together then I recommend Elmer's Disappearing Purple Glue Stick. This glue is awesome! Just remember to apply glue to the thicker split card.
If you've never used the Elmer's glue stick method, give it a go. It might surprise you how good a card it produces.
Watch the video in the password Protected Area
If you are going to use dry mount tissue (DMT) to join your split cards then you'll need an electric tacking iron. If you're going to go this route I would recommend buying a digital temperature controlled one. (mine isn't but I have an external thermometer I use to set the temperature)
The DMT I use is called Colormount.
You'll also need a 3mm corner cutter.
If you go the glue stick method of joining split cards together then I recommend Elmer's Disappearing Purple Glue Stick. This glue is awesome! Just remember to apply glue to the thicker split card.
If you've never used the Elmer's glue stick method, give it a go. It might surprise you how good a card it produces.
Watch the video in the password Protected Area
DMT or Elmer's Disappering Purple glue stick?
It all depends on the gaffs you intend to make.
If you're new to this, start with Elmer's Disappearing Purple glue Stick.
If your gaff needs to be constructed with thin split cards only, use DMT.
It's handy to have both available.
If you're new to this, start with Elmer's Disappearing Purple glue Stick.
If your gaff needs to be constructed with thin split cards only, use DMT.
It's handy to have both available.
IN-Stripper Jig
Do you supply any instructions?
I provide video instructions on how to use the IN-Stripper Jig. A link will be emailed when purchased. Or, if you register you can view this video in the password Protected Area.
No instructions are given for IN-Stripper Card technique. If you don't know what they are or how to use them …this is not the jig you're looking for.
Theory11 have an excellent introduction to the concept, https://store.theory11.com/products/sub-rosa-by-jason-england
No instructions are given for IN-Stripper Card technique. If you don't know what they are or how to use them …this is not the jig you're looking for.
Theory11 have an excellent introduction to the concept, https://store.theory11.com/products/sub-rosa-by-jason-england
How heavy is the work?
The width of the "notch" is pre-set wide. The depth of the work is controlled by the user.
Is there a IN-Stripper Jig User Guide?
A video can be viewed in the Protected Area
Breather Punch
Do you supply any instructions?
A video can be viewed in the Protected Area
Also, the online User Guide for the Breather Jig might be useful. Download the guide here.
Also, the online User Guide for the Breather Jig might be useful. Download the guide here.
How heavy is the work?
The depth of the work is controlled by the user.
Blunt Punch
Do you supply any instructions?
A video can be viewed in the Protected Area
See also, Dai Vernon’s Chronicles “More Lost Inner Secrets” Vol.2 p158, and Mike Power’s book “Power Plays”
See also, Dai Vernon’s Chronicles “More Lost Inner Secrets” Vol.2 p158, and Mike Power’s book “Power Plays”
See…MagicPedia
https://geniimagazine.com/wiki/index.php?title=Punch_Deal,[iframe]
See also, Dai Vernon’s Chronicles “More Lost Inner Secrets” Vol.2 p158, and Mike Power’s book “Power Plays”
How heavy is the work?
The depth of the work is controlled by the user.
Spinners Bias Coins
Do you supply any instructions?
I provide video instructions on how to sort and look after the Spinners. A video can be viewed in the Protected Area
The bias coins are self working, all they need is a flat surface and a good confident speedy spin.
I recommend learning a shuttle pass to switch coins.
Hector Chadwick has an excellent little book called, A Florin Spun, which I highly recommend. https://hectorchadwick.co.uk/shop/p/florin
Also, Sharps and Flats, available to download as a pdf. https://archive.org/details/sharpsflatscompl00maskuoft/sharpsflatscompl00maskuoft/page/n13/mode/2up see page 19
The bias coins are self working, all they need is a flat surface and a good confident speedy spin.
I recommend learning a shuttle pass to switch coins.
Hector Chadwick has an excellent little book called, A Florin Spun, which I highly recommend. https://hectorchadwick.co.uk/shop/p/florin
Also, Sharps and Flats, available to download as a pdf. https://archive.org/details/sharpsflatscompl00maskuoft/sharpsflatscompl00maskuoft/page/n13/mode/2up see page 19
Will the coins work on any surface?
Any smooth flat surface will work, make sure there are no bumps or dents and check for anything that might throw the coins off spinning, like grains of salt etc.
Any surface that isn't smooth will reduce the odds of success.
The bias coins have one side heavier than the other, the heavier side will fall flat onto the table. The lighter side will be face up. The coins are delicately balanced so please check the surfaces before spinning.
Plates with a shallow rim are ideal, they have a smooth surface and contain the coin
Looking after the Spinners
A video can be viewed in the Protected Area
N-Stripper Jig Rapid
Do you supply any instructions?
No instructions are given for N-Stripper Card technique. If you don't know what they are or how to use them …this is not the jig you're looking for.
However I do show the mechanics of the gaff. Check out the Protected Area
However I do show the mechanics of the gaff. Check out the Protected Area
What type of sandpaper?
Any fine yellow sandpaper, 180 grit upward. Don't buy coloured sandpapers like brown or green, their colour can transfer to the playing cards.
Any further instructions?
There is an older video in the protected Area you may find useful, The Negative Stripper Jig Protected Area
Also check out Jason England's video https://store.theory11.com/products/sub-rosa-by-jason-england
Also check out Jason England's video https://store.theory11.com/products/sub-rosa-by-jason-england
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